Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
